Hyakunen no Hana (Flowers of a Hundred Years): A special bijin series devoted to women of the 20th century by Paul Binnie
“In 2012 I began a new bijin series, Hyakunen no Hana (Flowers of a Hundred Years), which highlights the changing roles, political issues, social situations and lifestyles of women in Japan in the 20th century, decade by decade. Each print illustrates a beauty featuring the hair and clothing fashions of that era, beginning in 1900, but also explores the real lives of the women of those times, how their traditional roles were in constant flux as Japan itself evolved dramatically throughout the twentieth century. The series has twelve designs, one for each decade of the past century and a final one for 2010, and at the conclusion of the series, collectors who to subscribe for all of the prints receive a bonus chuban design.
In this series, I have returned to the large format and very lavish printing previously seen in his well-known Shiki (Four Seasons) prints of 2003-2005, utilising various types of mica, silver and bronze metallic pigments, embossing, multiple overprintings and shadings and 23 carat gold leaf. All of these new designs are printed over 40 times to achieve a richness and depth of color rarely seen in contemporary printmaking, and I work with both very traditional methods of woodblock printing as well as some of the new innovations of the modern print world, such as baren sujizuri, or swirling lines of printing, and goma zuri (sesame printing) when the paper is only lightly pressed on the ink to give a mottled or broken color application. These printing effects are derived from Shin Hanga (New Prints) and Sosaku Hanga (Creative Prints) respectively, the two early twentieth century print movements which revived woodblock printing in Japan.
Those who have already subscribed will receive matched-number edition numbers from this series as before.” – Paul Binnie
MOGA / A Modern Girl of 1920

Senkyuhakunijuunen no Moga / A Modern Girl (of 1920)
Hyakunen no Hana series (Flowers of a Hundred Years), Woodblock, 2013. Print size: 18 ½ x 13 inches. Image size: 17 1/2 x 11 1/2 in. Signed, numbered and titled. Edition: 100. Condition: Excellent. Price: $1,100
“The newest print in the current series of twentieth century beauties, Hyakunen no Hana (Flowers of a Hundred Years) shows a Modern Girl of 1920. The Japanese title Moga, is a contraction of the first two syllables of the two words of the phrase; i.e. ‘modan‘ (modern) and ‘garu‘ (girl). Moga were a cultural phenomenon similar to flappers in the West, young women who escaped from the paternalism and family controls of previous decades and did many things the older generations found shocking. They cut their hair into shorter styles, wore western-style clothes, smoked cigarettes and drank alcohol – such as the Manhattan cocktails we see here – while dancing or flirting with young men (hence two cocktails), things we might take for granted today, but which were a complete break with expectations of more traditional Japanese society. The 1920s were an economic boom period, and young women could have jobs that gave them freedom to live their lives away from controls and restrictions imposed by their parents’ generation. A flood of images and ideas from the West entered Japan between the wars, and the colour scheme of this design reflects the red, white and blue of the USA, Britain and France, all countries Moga were fascinated by.
There is a famous and rare print by the Shin Hanga (New Prints) artist Kobayakawa Kiyoshi called Horoyoi (Tipsy) of 1930, and this was a reference point for my Moga, particularly in the strong deep-red background. However, Kiyoshi seems to criticise his slightly drunk, chubby and bleary-eyed model, whereas my feeling about the new freedoms of the period is one of wholehearted support, and I celebrate the new-found independence women were taking for themselves at this time.
The new print is in the same format as the first two designs in the set, Kuchi-e and Ebicha Hakama, a large Dai-Oban format. As before in this set, the printing is lavish, and as well as 47 colour and bokashi (shading) printings, it employs mica, embossing, silver metallic pigment and 23-carat gold leaf.” - Paul Binnie
Ebicha Hakama / Maroon Hakama of 1910

Ebicha Hakama / Maroon Hakama of 1910
Hyakunen no Hana series (Flowers of a Hundred Years), Woodblock, 2012. Print size: 18 ½ x 13 inches. Image size: 17 1/2 x 11 1/2 in. Signed, numbered and titled. Edition: 100. Condition: Excellent. Price: $1,100
“The second print in the series Hyakunen no Hana (Flowers of a Hundred Years), is called Ebicha Hakama, or Maroon Hakama of 1910, referring to the trouser-like over-kimono worn by the girl in the print, which identifies her as a female university student. Women’s universities were founded in the first decade of the 20th century, such as the Japan Women’s College (now University) in 1901 in Tokyo and several others throughout Japan soon after. By 1910, it was becoming acceptable for young women to consider a university education instead of an early marriage, and this young woman wears the usual hakama over her kimono to symbolise a female student of that time. Maroon hakama became such a symbol of female education that the wife of the artist Kaburagi Kiyokata, a well-known intellectual called Tsuzuri Teru, was kept distant from the artist’s family by his mother, who declared ‘she did not like maroon hakama’ – and, we may assume, all that they implied about the wearer.
Hakama, worn by both men and women in Japan in the ancient past, allowed freedom of movement and kept the kimono clean rather like an apron, so were a useful item of clothing for certain classes of society and professions. Of course, in traditional depictions of Heian female writers, such as Murasaki Shikibu or Ono no Komachi, they are inevitably wearing hakama, but this garment had fallen out of favour with women until a revival in the late 19th century. We might imagine, in a typical Meiji mix of East and West, that this girl is wearing high, buttoned leather boots on her feet, and many female students even had a blouse under their kimono too.
Technically this is a very complex design – it employs 47 printings, including silver metallic pigment and 23 carat gold leaf in the hair ribbon motifs of laurels symbolising academic achievement, and there is fine mica admixed with the maroon of the hakama to give a dull lustre rather than a glitter, so suggest heavy wool serge. The title and Binnie in the bottom margin are embossed, and there are many areas of bokashi – hand shading, particularly on the kimono sleeves, which shade from mauve to yellow in two intensities of colour, overlaid with orange squares, also in bokashi. The print is a very large oban size closer to two Edo or Meiji-period oban prints, as was the first design.” – Paul Binnie
Senkyuhyaku-nen no Kuchi-e / A Frontispiece Illustration of 1900

Senkyuhyaku-nen no Kuchi-e / A Frontispiece Illustration of 1900
- Hyakunen no Hana series (Flowers of a Hundred Years), Woodblock, 2012. Print size: 18 ½ x 13 inches. Image size: 17 1/2 x 11 1/2 in. Signed, numbered and titled. Edition: 100. Condition: Excellent. Price: $1,100
“A new print design for May 2012, and also the first image in a new series of Japanese beauties, Kuchi-e, (Frontispiece Illustration), will be the first in a series called ‘Hyakunen no Hana’ or Flowers of a Hundred Years. The series will highlight the changing roles, political and social situations and lifestyles of women in Japan in the 20th century, decade by decade.
The full title of the first print is ‘Senkyuhyaku-nen no Kuchi-e’, or A Frontispiece Illustration of 1900, and it shows a young, middle-class woman looking at the woodblock printed illustration in the front of a copy of Bungei Kurabu, a very popular literary magazine aimed at a female audience. By 1900 there were several magazines like this one, all of which serialised works of new and older fiction and might include poetry and criticism. The important point is that by this time, the educational reforms of the Meiji government meant that women were now on an equal footing with men in being taught to read and write to a functioning level, so Japan had become a nation with universal literacy. The situation was such that the female population, which had remained largely neglected during the previous Edo period, now had the skills to read and write competently and had access to literature, even supporting a specific genre of literary magazines aimed at women.
The model has a reformed hairstyle, looser than the traditional Shimada hairstyle and closer to the circa 1900 ‘Gibson Girl’ hairstyle of Western nations, and she has chosen to have no combs or decorations in it, even though she continues to wear kimono and not Western dress, symbolic of the types of stylistic mixes one sees around Meiji 33 (1900). This new style of hair tends to be linked to educated, forward-thinking women in illustrations of the period, and so seems right for our literate magazine subscriber.
In the print the young woman is studying a kuchi-e of a Heian beauty, a popular subject at the time and also in this case a reference to the great literary women of the past, such as Murasaki Shikibu, Sei no Shonagon and Ono no Komachi, among many others. The kuchi-e is palely printed using baren sujizuri to suggest that we are seeing the reverse of the image, and the darker green on the cover of the book as well as the background are highlighted with sprinkled mica. In addition, the collar of her inner kimono is embellished with 24 carat gold squares, printed in a ‘kirigane’ or cut gold style, and the edge of the leaves of the magazine are embossed, as are the title and series title in the upper left margin, and Binnie in the lower margin.” – Paul Binnie